How to Build a Poker Table - Constructing the Poker Table Rail

Next, we begin with the other sheet of plywood that will become the rail, and the leftover will be used as a support piece for the table base. I chose to use a 5" wide rail which is a good size. Most rails are 4-5" in width (before padding). So go ahead and trace out the outline of where you will cut using the same methods for cutting the table arc and the lip for the rail. Drill some small pilot holes to fit the jigsaw into the table and cut around the table leaving you with a 5" wide rail and the leftover piece that will be attached to the table base.

Drawing the Rail

Cutting the Rail

Set aside the leftover piece for now as we begin constructing the rail. We are going to get the rail that you just cut out and attach the rail lip cut out from the table base using glue and screws. Lay your rail face down and lay the rail lip on top of it. Make sure your asterisks are aligned. The pieces should be close to flush on the outside edge. Then, take your pen or marker and trace around the inside edge of the rail lip. Remove the rail lip leaving just the rail with the outline of where the rail lip will sit. This is important because it shows you where you need to glue. Then take your glue and apply it in a small strip all the way around in the area where the rail lip will sit. Now you will put the rail lip back on and align it properly. Use your clamps in the 4 corners to hold the rail lip down. Then take your drill and drill some pilot holes for the screws. You can add as many or as few as you want. I used a 1/8" bit for the pilot holes. Make sure your bit isn't wider then the actual screws. Its also a good idea to measure about 1-1/4" on the drill bit and wrap some tape around it so you don't drill too far into the wood and come out the other side. Add the screws as you go along and, once you have added all the screws, remove the wood clamps and set this piece aside to dry. I spaced out my screws about every 10-12".

Drawing the Outline for the Lip

Glueing the Lip to the Rail

Screwing the Lip to the Rail

Lip and Rail clamped together

Now will we attach the leftover piece from the rail to the underside of the table base. This will give support for the table so that it will not sag. If you plan on using your table only as a poker table top (without legs) that you can set on an existing table, then do not add this piece to the base. Begin by placing the actual table top playing surface face down and center the support piece on top of it. You will then trace around the support piece with a pen or marker and then remove the support piece from the table. Add glue all over on the inside of the outline and reset the support piece back on top onto the glue. Then drill pilot holes and add screws to secure this piece to the main base piece. Make sure you do not drill through the other side of the table. Remember to tape your drill bit to avoid drilling too deep! Add screws all around the piece and then let dry.

Glueing the Poker Table Support Piece

Adding Screws for the Poker Table Support

You are now complete with the construction phase of the table. The rest of the process will include adding materials and foam to complete the table. When finished, you can put your table upright and do a dry fit of the pieces by placing the completed rail on top of the base. Make sure all asterisks are aligned and they should fit together nicely as shown below. This is also a good time to add the folding table legs to the bottom if you choose to do so. I waited until the very end because I was unsure of what legs (if any) I wanted. Follow instructions on your banquet table legs package to install them.

Poker Table Dry Fit Top

Poker Table Dry Fit Bottom

 

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